Dau Visa Centre on the Place |
I had
absolutely no idea of what awaited me in Dau.
Having visited the website multiple times, I knew that it was a multi-media
installation, involving a number of fiction films, video installations,
documentaries, art work and so on. I knew that it was “an experiment” in which
people from various walks of life participated over a number of years. I knew
that the set was built in Kharkov in the Ukraine, and that whatever awaited me was
going to be something like a psychological study of isolation and what happens
when people are thrust together in a small living space for a period of time. I knew that the
première in Berlin at the Film Festival was cancelled when the organizers
realized the enormity of the project. I had also seen a few clips of some of the films, but
how and where they fit into the larger project, I had no idea. I knew that Paris
was the first lucky city to house the event after years of anticipation.
Lastly, I knew Dau was going to be monumental—in every sense of the word—because
it had overtaken the two theatres either side of the Place du Châtelet. Given all
this, plus the ambiguity of the publicity around Dau, I knew I had to go. It turned out that nothing could have prepared me for Dau, least of all, time in the Soviet Union.
Dau poster at Théâtre de la Ville |
Rather than
buying a ticket, visitors are required to buy a visa on line at least two hours
in advance. Why? It wasn’t clear until I arrived at Place du Châtelet, as
instructed, 30 minutes prior to my chosen entry time. I picked up a visa that looked
almost identical to my carte de séjour. I then headed to the under renovation Théâtre de la Ville for two rounds of security at the entrance. Both the Théâtre
de la Ville and Théâtre Châtelet have been taken over by Dau for three weeks of their renovation period. While neither space
bore much resemblance to my memories of Soviet Russia, they had been refitted
to something unlike any other spaces on the contemporary Paris cultural
landscape. The easiest reference for both is Berlin’s Tacheles with a
21st century Paris twist. The spaces on each floor, the stairways, and the theatres have been transformed to have an “under
construction” appearance. Each space within both buildings has been given a
name that in some way reflects the work on display there—Communism, Animal, Body,
Intimacy, Addiction, Ambition, Orgasm, Compliance, Ideology, and the list goes
on. To be sure, nothing resembled the Soviet Union.
I settled
on buying a six hour visa and stayed for eight hours. Despite the intensity and
confrontation of the images, and the serious challenge of being immersed in the
fabricated environment of Soviet Russia, the eight hours slipped by without me
noticing the time. Indeed, because no electronic devices, including telephones,
were allowed into the buildings, time took on a wholly different character. Mostly,
it became incidental.
Ilya Khrzhanovsky, Dau, 2019 |
On arrival
at the Théâtre de la Ville, I headed straight upstairs to ANIMAL where a film
was about to start. I noticed lines to get into various other spaces, but the
cinema was nearly empty. People filtered in once the film began and, to my
surprise, got up and left pretty soon afterwards. My first film was Dau 11, set for much of the time in the Institute
Cafeteria. It’s true that it was slow and, in the beginning, reminded me of
watching Jeanne Dielman. But as the film wore on, I realized it was a very
carefully constructed, unfolding narrative, moving towards a violent and
extremely difficult to watch ending. In this and the other two films I saw,
there was a prominence of excruciating violence—think of a man taking a sledge
hammer to his fellows and lovers—excessive drinking, painful psychological manipulation,
unredacted sex, including rape. Dau 11 builds up to a scene in which a KGB officer (or lackey, it’s
difficult to know which) forces a woman to put a cognac bottle in her vagina. In
another film, a young woman in a glass cage begins to imitate the distress of a
monkey captured in an adjacent glass cage, and in another, a man butchers his
lover among others. In one of the daily rushes there is a scene in which Dau, the physicist after whose biography the whole project is named, forces two women to have sex while he watches and teases in something like a sado-masochistic torture. When I say sex, violence and manipulation,
I am not talking about shots of someone’s upper body performing sexual
intercourse. No detail is spared. Yes, for example, after watching her painful undressing, we see the woman put the cognac bottle into her vagina and the officer subsequently pushing it in and out. Each of the films I watched contained similarly disturbing and confrontational
images that I have not yet forgotten.
The placing of the body under
extreme stress, whether it be naked women being physically and psychologically
tortured, or men being pushed to limits through physical exercise, was the films’ representation of the misogyny and sadism of the communist regime. I’m pretty
sure that walking into the film, staying for 30 minutes, and leaving to enjoy a
vodka at the bar, would not have produced the harrowing experience that I had. So,
(un)like life in the USSR, Dau offers
different opportunities to different visitors.
The spaces
I enjoyed the most (given that I didn't exactly "enjoy" the films) were those in Théâtre de la Ville identified as COMMUNISM. A series
of small rooms underneath the cuppola were staged as those of ordinary people in the Soviet regime. There was an abacus in every room, period
clothes and shoes, photographs, newspapers from back in the day, sewing
machines, tablecloths and ornaments. I wandered through these rooms around 1am
and they were filled with people, young and old, sitting around talking,
arguing, playing chess and smoking. These were the only spaces in the whole
complex that reminded me of the Soviet Union. There was also the odd person
asleep on the mattresses, others washing clothes and stringing them up on lines
across the rooms, and many drinking vodka. Who knew life without cell phones
could be so engaging!
Daily rushes from the five years of filming can be seen on monitors in HISTORY |
Another
thing I loved about the absence of cell phones was that in the breaks between
films, as well as when looking at video installations on the stairs, or simply
wandering around, there was always a feeling of community. Sitting in the screening
space waiting for the next film to begin, people started up conversations, wanting to
discuss the film we had just seen, talking about the difficulty of watching the
daily rushes (on monitors in single occupancy cabins downstairs in HISTORY), engaging
in general chit chat like we used to in our pre-Apple lives.
For people not
interested in the films—though I do think that the event is going to be of most
interest to film people—there were concerts and performances in other spaces.
In the FUTURE, I saw a technical music concert with synthesizers. People lay on
a sunken sand-covered ground with their heads under a strobe lights, flickering
to the beat of the music. It was something that I imagine would be best
experienced stoned. For the audience, a giant mirror began at the back of the “staged
area” and tilted upwards to the front, high above. We sat on raked concrete stairs in
the round, feeling the beat of the music and watching the people, the flashing
lights and the lights of the synthesizer in mirrored reflection.
Other than the films,
videos in unlikely nooks and crannies, period Soviet artworks from the Pompidou,
and a sound design, extended from the films, reverberating throughout the whole
building, it was also possible to go shopping. Dau merchandise, such as postcards, note pads, unmarked tinned
food, industrial gloves and jackets—none of which I ever saw on the shelves in
the Soviet Union—could be purchased at Paris 2019 prices. And of
course, food and drinks were on sale at the bar, both of which were more
authentically Soviet than the merchandise: goulash-looking stews for 2€ and cheap vodka in tin mugs
for the Paris proletariat.
All in all,
it was an intense and fascinating 8 hours. However, as a film watcher and
lover, I admit, Dau was challenging on many different levels. Will I go back? Probably not, but only because I don’t
have the time. For all the confrontation of the experience, even though the films were chilling, they also have an authenticity that makes them compelling and, as films, they were at times very beautiful. In fact, I am very much looking forward to their full theatrical release.